Surabaya through the Lens of a Dutch Writers’ Couple: Between Peneleh and Historical Traces

Mengunjungi makam Herman Van Der Tuuk, peletak dasar Bahasa Indonesia.. Foto: ags/Begandring

The sound of drumming bamboo drums that started the opening of the Peneleh Festival on July 8 2023, not only echoed throughout the Surabaya area, but also attracted attention in the country of Dutch windmills. Word about the festival even reached native Amsterdam writer couple Auke Kok and Dido Michielson, who didn’t want to miss the opportunity to delve into Peneleh’s rich history.

Arriving in Surabaya on July 16 2023, Auke and Dido immediately continued their journey to Lodji Besar on Jalan Makam Peneleh, where they had been promised a meeting with Begandring Soerabaia. As lovers of history, especially the Dutch East Indies era, their arrival brought enthusiasm to dig deeper into Peneleh.

During their visit, the couple was not only amazed by Lodji Besar as the headquarters of the Begandring Soerabaia historical community, but also witnessed the diversity and inclusiveness that radiated from the European cemetery in Peneleh. They observed that there was no grouping by nationality in the cemetery, a reflection of Surabaya’s multiculturalism even in colonial times.

Their conclusions were formed through discussions with members of Begandring Soerabaia, while paying attention to various historical artifacts on display at Lodji Besar. From here, they began to understand Surabaya through various old maps and advertisements displayed on the walls, bringing them to the atmosphere of the Dutch East Indies under normal circumstances.

Dido herself has an emotional connection to this city, as a person of mixed Indo descent whose father used to work at Staatsspoorwegen in Surabaya. While touring Peneleh and the SS railway employee housing complex in Gubeng, Dido reflected on her family history and saw for herself the ancient houses still standing.

Their journey in Surabaya became the inspiration for a new book they are planning. Through their experiences in Peneleh and Gubeng, as well as interactions with local historians, Auke and Dido hope to bring stories about Surabaya’s rich history to readers in the Netherlands and around the world.

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